CR-1 Well Tolerated for all skin types/acne.

Abyssinian oil is a powerful Omega-9 oil known for its emollient properties which makes it well suited for dispersing nutrients through the skin. Abyssinian oil is very light and well absorbed. It rapidly plumps and hydrates the skin. I tend to infuse Abyssinian with beneficial herbs for body butter, shampoo bars, face masks and scrubs. Additionally, Abyssinian is well used by the hair creating soft, well manageable locks. 

CR- 2 Combination to Dry skin

Made from the seeds of apricots, Apricot Kernel oil has anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-aging and antiseptic and anti-bacterial properties. It is said to be highly beneficial for acne prone skin with its non-irritating and soothing activities. It absorbs well into the skin with its light and moisturizing consistency. I use this in Green Man Beard oil using the stearic acid component for its ability to gently remove dirt, excess oil and toxins from the skin.  In a soap, the linoleic and oleic properties add conditioning to the final bar.

CR- 0 Suitable for Most skin types

Produced from the Argan Tree which is grown in Morocco, Argan oil is full of essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that moisturize, soften and protect the skin. It has restorative properties that can be used to face scars, smooth the skin's texture and is beneficial for acne prone skin. Argan Oil has a smooth, silky consistency and absorbs quickly into the skin. I use Argan oil in Brighid’s Bees’ Body Summer Body Butter as it is well absorbed and lightweight.

CR-2 (when diluted in a carrier) All skin types

Arnica is a flowering perennial plant that grows in mountainous regions. It did very well in my Pacific Northwest Garden. Arnica has both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is well suited for healing balms and salves to reduce swelling, relieve pain and protect against infection. NOTE: Arnica should not be applied to open wounds but rather as an adjunct to other anti-inflammatory ingredients for topical applications for aches and pains. In a salve, the addition of cayenne and turmeric makes a wonderful sore muscle balm.

CR-2 Drier and Acne-prone skin

Avocado oil is a fruit-derived oil teeming with essential and trace minerals. Avocado oil helps relieve dry irritated skin, reduce pore size and remove impurities. It is also said to be a good long-term treatment for psoriasis, eczema and seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff). It has a heavier, thick consistency that absorbs a little slower into the skin. This is why I use Avocado oil in Brighid’s Bees’ Winter Body Butter for its heavy hitting winter protection. I also use Avocado oil in Druid’ Dreads Solid Shampoo Bars, Soap Bars, and Brighid’s Bees’ clay masks. 

CR-1-2 Low to Mod Low/ Most skin types

Babassu oil is expeller pressed from the kernels of the fallen fruit of the babassu palm. It is mostly found in Brazil. It is a very good alternative to palm or coconut oil.  Rowan is careful to find RainForest Certified, Fair Trade and Organic whenever possible. It is excellent for problem skin: eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, and acne as it is well absorbed. I use babassu in butters, masks, soaps and shampoos.

CR-1 For most skin types/Acne

Blueberry seed oil is nutrient-dense rich in vitamins A, B, C & E, omega-3, omega-6 fatty acids, antioxidants and minerals. It is a powerful moisturizer that can help with dry, cracked, or irritated skin conditions. It may also help with skin regeneration. For the hair, blueberry oil helps to prevent moisture loss, adds elasticity and promotes silkiness. It is light and well absorbed. Rowan uses blueberry seed oil in clay masks and butters.

CR-2 Best for combination/Oily skin

Another wonderful Pacific Northwest producer in my garden, Borage seed oil comes from the seeds of the borage plant. It is rich in gamma-linolenic acid and linoleic acid and is considered similar to evening primrose. It is one of the richest sources of essential fatty acids and a wonderful source of vitamins and minerals. Borage, applied topically, nourishes, protects, and hydrates the skin. It calms and smooths skin and is well known for its skin regeneration attributes. Borage is well suited for psoriasis, eczema and acne prone skin. Rowan uses Borage for all manner of salves, balms and shampoo formulations.

CR-1 Well tolerated for most skin types

Broccoli seed oil has a unique fatty acid profile and is highly moisturizing. Having antioxidant properties, it protects skin from damage by neutralizing free radicals. Broccoli is high in vitamin C supporting collagen production and stimulating skin and hair cell regeneration. Erucic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid) accelerates wound healing, brightens and smooths the complexion, and increases suppleness. It prevents trans epidermal water loss, so the moisture stays in. It adds sheen and manageability to the hair and is readily absorbed. Broccoli seed oil is used in shampoo bars, beard oils and balms and butters.

CR-3-4 Dry/Irritated skin

Here is a case where the CR changes depending on the formulation. When used in sunflower oil the rating is 1 and when used in olive oil, the rating is 2 etc. 

Calendula is a natural oil extracted from the flower. I loved seeing those brightly colored flowers appear. They are eye-catching and rich in fatty acids that help to moisturize and hydrate. It is particularly beneficial for sensitive, irritated or damaged skin. (“Calendula Benefits for Skin | Asian Beauty Essentials”) Using this oil can help decrease redness, hyperpigmentation aids in new tissue formation. Its anti-inflammatory effects are well known. Calendula has the added benefit of promoting blood circulation which in turn helps with new healthy skin generation. It is well absorbed with a thicker consistency. Calendula is infused in ALL Kraken Tattoo Aftercare Products for all these reasons. I typically infuse my herbs in Avocado, Sunflower or Apricot Kernel Oils.

CR-3-4 Not recommended for Acne prone skin.

Have you ever seen carrot seeds? The tiny little bugger packs a wallop. Due to its flavonoid content, Carrot seed has antifungal, antibacterial, and antioxidant benefits. For the skin, Carrot seed oil can help with dryness and chapping as well as eczema and psoriasis. Its anti-inflammatory properties can soothe and replenish skin, and the antioxidants help protect skin from free radical damage. It smooths fine lines and is well used for repairing sun damage. As a matter of fact, Carrot seed oil has natural sun-blocking characteristics. For the hair, all of the above apply with the added benefit of increased hair growth, reductions of split ends and strengthening hair fibers. I use Carrot Seed Oil in Shampoo Bars, Lip Balms and Beard Oils. Carrot seed oil is viscous and is incorporated with other lighter oils to enhance absorption.

CR-1 Oily Skin

This is another seed oil. lt is native to tropical regions of India, South America and Africa. Castor seed oil has strong purging and detoxifying properties. It is said to be effective for acne prone skin as it helps increase cell turnover. I am currently using Castor oil in soap bars as it can be very drying to the skin. Castor oil adds a fluffy stable lather to the soap bar. It is very thick and sticky and not well absorbed unless diluted with other oils.

CR-4 Most skin types except acne prone

Cocoa butter is extracted from the cocoa bean. Cocoa butter is a vital ingredient in many natural skincare products. It is also a culprit of the deforestation process of the tropical regions. This is why it is imperative to me that my cocoa butter, as well as any highly problematic oils and butters, be ethically sourced. I use certified organic and fair trade at every opportunity. At the moment of this writing, I am using cocoa butter that can be traced back to Peru and is certified Fair Trade. Cocoa butter is an exceptional deep moisturizer for chapped dry skin. It can help smooth out wrinkles and act as an anti-aging cream. It is also well used for reduction of stretch marks and scars which I use for body butters, balms and in some of my specialized bar soaps.

CR-4 Dry skin

Coconut Oil is derived from the flesh of the coconut. (“8 Reasons Why You Should Add Coconut Oil to Your Survival Stockpile”) It is another one of those “problematic” oils. Deforestation affects the soil, the environment and animal habitats. The manner in which the oil is extracted adds another aspect. That is why we use Organic, Non-GMO, Cold pressed Coconut Oil. Coconut oil is well suited for dry skin and has anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and skin-healing abilities. It stimulates collagen and is full of Vitamin E. Although it has very good skin benefits, I tend to lean less on coconut oil for cosmetic purposes utilizing other targeted oils.  I tend to use Coconut Oil mostly in my soaps. It is high in lauric acid adding to hardness and myristic properties that increase fluffy lather.

CR-1 Most skin types

It’s another seed. Cucumber seed oil is a specialized lightweight, non-comedogenic oil I use in cosmetics for soothing, cooling, regenerating, cellular turnover, antioxidant and UV protection. It promotes natural moisture balance and smoothing out rough patches. It is thin and rapidly absorbed. It is a lovely addition to any skin care cosmetic, balm, butter or clay mask.

CR-0-2 Well tolerated by most skin types

Dandelion oil extract is the end result of infusion of the dried dandelion root in sunflower seed oil. It is a super antioxidant with tremendous antibacterial properties. It is high in vitamins A (retinol and beta-carotene) that speeds up healing, C for skin turnover and regeneration, and E, a humectant and emollient that helps skin absorb and keep water, among other benefits. Dandelion boasts antioxidants that increase anti-aging activity and help protect the skin from UV rays. Dandelions are the BOMB!! It is well applied to body butters, clay masks and some facial soaps, to name a few. Because it is infused in sunflower seed oil, it is light and readily absorbed.

CR-4 Not well tolerated

Flax seed is not very helpful for leave on products but it is a wonderful addition to soaps, shampoos and hair masks. In soaps, it adds linoleic and oleic conditioning properties, and the hair masks are divine. Flax seed promotes hair growth, soothes the scalp, strengthens hair shafts and adds shine and softness. I use it for soap bars, shampoo bars and hair masks regularly.

CR-1 Best for most skin types

Grapeseed oil is used often in my formulations. For soaps, the linoleic and oleic profiles add wonderful conditioning and creaminess. In an emulsion, body butter, clay mask, balm, salve or beard oil, it is a wonderful light weight anti-inflammatory reducing redness. It is rich in Vitamin E and has the added benefit of accelerating healing for acne prone skin. It is the Brighid’s Bees’ Summer Body Butter base along with Jojoba.

CR-0 Just about anyone/excellent for sensitive and oily skin types

Hemp is a well known and highly used oil for many various reasons. One of which is its ability to be used in a very wide range of products. It is easily grown, easily harvested and right here in our own back yard. Unlike tropical oils, it does not require heavy transport across the seas. I want to be able to use it in so many ways. It adds a wonderful linoleic and oleic conditioning property to my soaps. It has amazing skin softening and moisturizing properties. It reduces redness and inflammation associated with acne and is a great treatment for eczema, psoriasis, and dry itchy skin. It has a medium viscosity yet absorbs quickly and efficiently into the skin. Hemp seed oil is a great addition to hair and face masks as well as winter balm and butter formulations.

CR-2 Suitable for most skin types/including oily skin

Jojoba is called “the holy grail” of acne treatment because it mimics the consistency of one's own sebum. Sebum for keeping your skin hydrated, moisturized and lubricated. It also has antimicrobial effects and aids in the synthesis of vitamin D. Believe it or not, oil is needed by the skin to be able to regenerate and stay healthy. Stripping the skin of helpful oils can cause overproduction of sebum. This is why, even oily, skin should be moisturized. OK, anyway, Jojoba oil is one of the oils Rowan chooses to use for many leave on products. It is in the body butters, the beard oils and the clay masks. Makes sense right? If a clay is applied to detoxify the pores, replacing the oils and constituents of the skin should be part of the routine. Jojoba is a medium viscosity well absorbed oil.

CR-2 Moderately low

Karanja is considered the “cousin of Neem”. Neem is farther down the list and has many of the same properties of Karanja.  Karanja oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of the pongam tree which grows in India and other south Asian countries.  It is an extremely resilient and weather-resistant shrub that is able to grow in highly wet and dry conditions. It is rich in flavonoids (antioxidant and UV blocking and is very effective for skin and hair.   It can be slightly comedogenic whilst acting as a natural antiseptic. It can actually heal and prevent breakouts, so it is said. It is an excellent cleaning oil and a potent anti-parasitic/insecticide, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory.  This is why it goes in the beard oil, scrub soaps (if you are going to scrub off the top layers of skin, you really should protect the underlayers with all of the above). The Pumice callous and heavy hands soaps all include a combination of Neem and or Karanja. Karina is well used in salves, ointments and for problematic spot treatments.

CR-0-1 Most skin/Acne/Sensitive

Kokum is derived from the seed of the Koku tree, also known as mangosteen. The Kokum is native to India. Kokum seed is mashed and boiled to extract the oils. Kokum is a light, easily absorbed, non-comedogenic butter with very good emollient and moisturizing properties. Kokum butter is rich in fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins that help nourish and protect the skin and hair.  It does not leave a greasy feel and is well suited for butters, balms, salves, hair and face masks. I use Kokum interchangeably in soaps for hardness and conditioning.

CR-2 Best for dry or inflamed skin

Mango butter comes from Mango seeds. Most mangoes are grown in Asia and the Indian subcontinents. I am currently using an organic Mango Seed Butter from India. Mango trees are excellent at absorbing CO2, giving off less than they emit, managing soil erosion and requiring less water than other crops making it more eco-friendly. The down side is the discarded treatment products. Because mango butter is cold pressed, the chemical process of extraction is not an issue. The biggest drawback seems to be shipping and discarding the unused portions. Maybe the incorporation of mango butter helps to utilize some of the discarded parts. With all that, I wish I could replace palm and coconut oil with Mango butter, but the fatty acid profiles are not matching up. Rowan uses mango butter for its emollient and moisturizing properties. It works to soothe psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis by reducing inflammation and dry skin conditions. It also works well for bug bites, sun burns and rashes. Mango butter is a primary ingredient in Body Butters, Whipped Soap, and Hair Mask recipes. It melts at skin temperature and smooths on wonderfully. Mango butter adds linoleic, oleic and palmitic attributes to soaps. Palmitic additions help to harden the bar and create stable lather.

CR-1 Best for all skin types

Meadowfoam oil is a native wildflower of the Northwest. This makes it a wonderfully eco-friendly oil. I wish it was more pocketbook friendly though. At this time Meadowfoam is considered an additive. It has great detox abilities that are said to break down blackheads. It does have a great skin feel. It is rich and slightly waxy but absorbs quickly. It has very nice emollient properties and feels non-greasy on the skin. I am currently using this in Body Butters and Clay Masks. More to come.

CR- 1-2 Very good for dry skin

The Neem tree is found throughout the country of India. It is harvested and pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Neem Tree. (“20 Reasons Why Neem Oil Is A MUST HAVE In Your Organic Vegetable Garden”) Neem oil is an amazing oil for the acne prone. It boasts fabulous anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It reduces inflammation, redness and irritation while also moisturizing and protecting skin. I use it in Tattoo Aftercare, Scrub Bars and specialized Soap Bars. It is a thicker oil with a waxy consistency that does not absorb readily. This can be interpreted as a good winter butter inclusion as well.

CR-2 Best for MOST skin types

Olive oil is routine. We all know olive oil. Olive oil is readily available to the consumer. Most olive oil comes from the Mediterranean basin or Spain. It is a great conditioning oil and rich in antioxidants. It can reduce the signs of aging, heal dry skin and reduce inflammation and redness. Although olive oil has many benefits, I choose to limit their inclusion in most leave-on products.  I use olive oil mostly in soaps. It has unparalleled conditioning abilities. I plan to incorporate Aleppo soap to the repertoire. Aleppo is a traditional ancient Syrian soap made with olive oil and bay laurel oils. I can’t wait to have it available for you.

CR-4 Not well tolerated for facial skin

Palm Kernel Oil is included in the problematic oils following the same line of thinking as the Palm Oil. It has a nice texture like coconut oil with deeply moisturizing capabilities. It is useful for very dry skin and for soap making.  I don’t use Palm Kernel for leave on products though it can be helpful for calluses and cuticles. I do, however appreciate the lauric fatty acids and how they impart cleaning, fluffy lather and increase bar hardness.

CR- 4 Not well tolerated for topical applications

Palm oil is derived from the oil of the palm, and there are many reasons to avoid it due to its environmental impact. The palm oil industry has faced scrutiny for over planting and deforestation, which are major concerns. The extraction processes can also be polluting, and transporting the product has an environmental impact. However, it is an important ingredient in the soap-making business that is hard to replace economically. Despite this, I am diligent about sourcing palm oil and only buy organic RainForest Certified oils. These oils come with clear documentation of environmental policy, corporate social responsibility, and sustainability contracts, ensuring the highest quality available. Soap-making is a chemical process that requires specific fatty acid profiles to create saponification, which is the process of making soap. Palm oil provides the palmitic part of the fatty acid profile, resulting in the hard bar with a stable lather. It's important to note that not all products labeled as "soap" in the USA are true soaps, as the laws do not require a distinction between surfactant materials. This has led to detergents being used to replace real soap. Real soap is the result of saponification, a scientific process that involves mixing an alkali (Sodium Hydroxide) with fatty acids (oils) to create an entirely new element. In summary, while palm oil has its challenges, it plays a crucial role in soap-making, and the use of certified organic palm oil ensures eco-friendly and sustainable practices.

CR-2 Best for most skin types/Acne

Pumpkin seed oil is rich in zinc and selenium. Topical zinc provides vitamin A supporting cell growth and replication and can help with aging, actinic keratosis, eczema and rosacea. Selenium in a topical solution has UV protection components and, in a shampoo, may be helpful for dandruff. It is a rich thick oil that slowly absorbs.

CR-0-1

Red raspberry seed oil is used in facial and lip leave on products at Rowan. It has an SPF of 28 making a great choice for sun protection. It is high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties soothes, heals and adds glow to the skin. It is a medium viscosity oil that absorbs well.

CR-2 Will not clog pores for most people

Rice Bran Oil is a perfect sensitive skin oil. It is one of the best sources of tocotrienols which are a type of vitamin E with antioxidant properties protecting skin from aging, UV radiation, inflammation and melanin accumulation. It is a well-balanced oil that is generally well tolerated. Rice Bran for the hair rice bran application to thinning spots can help stimulate blood circulation to hair follicles and help with thinning hair. Rice bran can be found in Rowan’s shampoo bars, butters, balms, face soaps and beard oils.

CR-1 Best for oily skin

Although rosehip is great for oily skin, it also has remarkable abilities to reverse aging signs, decrease stretch marks, scars and sun damage. For damaged, dry mature skin, rosehip is a go to in Rowan formulations. Rosehip is a smooth thick oil that absorbs quickly.

CR-0 All skin types

Safflower oil is high in linoleic acids that make it quite effective for conditioning properties of soap bars. Topically, safflower is a light and gentle quickly absorbing oil that will not leave a greasy residue. It is helpful for blackheads and other skin impurities.

CR- non-comedogenic Most skin types

Sal Butter is a hard butter extracted from seed. The Shorea species ranges south of Himalaya from Myanmar to Bangladesh. Sal butter is a natural moisturizer that can be used for dry irritated skin. It is high in fatty acids, oleic acid, stearic acid and squalene, which can help improve skin's protective barrier. It is well applied to skin with dermatitis, eczema, rashes and sunburn. Lal is also nourishing to the hair, especially for deep conditioning dry and rough hair. Its fatty acid profiles compare to mango seed, but it is a bit firmer and helps to make a nice hard, stable lather bar of soap.

CR-1 Best for most skin types/Dry

Sea Buckthorn is high in vitamin A, B, E, antioxidants, omega fatty acids and biotin. It deeply penetrates the skin’s lipid layer, diminishing imbalances. It is well used for reducing redness and increasing skin regeneration. It is a wonder for the hair follicles to help with hair growth. I use Sea Buckthorn in beard oils, clay masks, beard balms and shampoos.

CR-0-2 Most skin types

Shea is a seed fat that comes from the shea tree. (“SHEA BUTTER - Uses, Side Effects, and More - WebMD”) It grows in the “Shea Belt” of sub-Saharan Africa. It is a naturally renewable raw material. The Shea tree lives for 300 years and “plays a fundamental role in ensuring social equality and cultural sustainability. Rowan buys raw Shea ethically sourced and fair trade. Shea has a heavy consistency that works well on its own for rough skin areas. It does leave a greasy feel on the skin, so it is not a go to for summer body butters in large amounts. On the other hand, for winter butters, it has great appeal for leave on products for its protective abilities in harsh weather conditions. Shea Butter is an Oleic hard hitter in Rowan soaps. Shea adds great conditioning effects and gives off a creamy lather. 

CR-0-2 Most skin types

Sunflower seed oil helps to balance, moisturize and fight signs of aging. Sunflower seed oil has natural antibacterial or cleansing abilities making it great for fighting acne causing bacteria. is readily attainable with good benefits. At Rowan, Sunflower seed oil is used for balms and salves and the high-oleic form is used in soaps for added conditioning. Sunflower seed oil is thin and easily absorbed.

CR-2 Sensitive skin/Acne 

Sweet almond soothes dry and irritated skin and is a softening and hydrating oil with its emollient properties. It is great for dry acne prone skin.  It is a slightly viscous deep penetrating oil that is readily absorbed. You can find Sweet Almond oil in leave on skin formulations like balms, butters and clay masks.

CR-2 Dry acne-prone skin

Tamanu comes from the nuts of the Calophyllum tree native to Asia, Africa and the Pacific. Tamanu oil has been used for various skin ailments including eczema, acne, psoriasis, burns, and wound healing. It has a thick consistency making it better used as a spot treatment. At Rowan, you might see this oil as a spot treatment clay for acne prone skin.

CR-1-2 Most skin types/Acne

Walnut oil is a smooth consistency readily absorbable oil with strong emollient and antibacterial properties. Its qualities also include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antiseptic properties. It is well suited for beard oils for this reason. You may also see walnut oil in a soothing gentle clay mask.